Dominique Laurent Grands Echezeaux V.V Grand Cru 2005

酒評分數:RP (92-94)+


From another parcel Laurent says is unusually rocky and thinly sub-soiled for its appellation (in this instance, next to Le Musigny), his two barrels of Grands Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes offer aromas of candied cherry and vanilla, a liqueur-like, almost confectionary and imposingly creamy palate impression, and a finish in which sheer ripeness, allied to notes of vanilla, caramel and coconut-shavings, make for a flamboyant display of oak-encased fruit. For clarity, purity, length, and sheer richness and sweetness of fruit, this is hard to fault, and I wonder whether the impression of extraneous woodiness is a momentary phase. Surprisingly, Laurent finds it necessary to routinely chaptalize the fruit of these eighty year-old vines (“a different strain of old Pinot” he calls them), reporting that even in 2003 it barely reached 12.5% potential alcohol.