The 2003 Barolo Cerequio opens with sweet, high-toned aromatics that lead to a feminine, super-ripe expression of small red fruit, minerals and toasted oak. Made in a taut, focused style, it needs a few years to come together, yet today it doesn’t appear to be an especially long-lived wine. In most vintages, the Cerequio is Voerzio’s most complete wine, but it seems to have suffered in 2003. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015.
Roberto Voerzio is one of the very few producers who has always been enthusiastic about his 2003s. His wines are beautiful even if they have shut down considerably since I last tasted them in tank a few months prior to their bottling. Voerzio’s passion for the vintage notwithstanding, 2003 presented an extremely challenging set of circumstances. Some of the wines never fully completed fermenting their sugars. Voerzio refused to use the additives that could have helped, saying that would have compromised the wines- naturalness. In 2003 there is no Barolo La Serra or Barolo Rocche dell-Annunziata. Voerzio also decided not to bottle his Langhe Merlot. There will be a new Barolo Riserva made from his newest holdings in Fossati/Case Nere, of which Voerzio says -this will be my Monfortino.- Curiously, Voerzio is often lumped in with producers of the modernist school, yet the Piedmont wines he is most passionate about are those of Bruno Giacosa and Giacomo Conterno, both of whom are heavily represented in his own cellar.