Domaine de la Pousse d'Or

Pousse d’ Or酒莊的歷史宛如史詩般的傳奇故事,自西元1100年開始至今,酒莊名稱不僅因幾度的轉賣而更改,更開枝散葉的創造了幾位傳奇釀酒師。在歷史的洪流裡Pousse d’ Or酒莊在1869年被Jacques-Marie Duvault-Blochet所收購,此人當時正主宰著世界上最珍貴的酒莊 Romanee Conti和Clos de Tart,期間更被邀請成為當時法王—飛利浦三世的皇室用酒,此後歷經幾次的轉賣後,由Jean-Nicolas Ferte找來具有釀酒天份的姪女婿 Gerard Potel (Nicolas Potel的父親)共同購入,並尋求Louis Seysses (Domaine Dujac的創立人)的加入,更加強了酒莊的陣仗。

酒莊在釀酒師Gerard Potel過世後已無心繼續經營,最終,於1997年又轉售給現任的莊主 Patrick Landagner,可以說經由Pousse d’Or酒莊的發展緣由,造就了現今勃根地王冠上的三顆寶石– Pousse d’Or、Nicolas Potel (Nicolas Potel已離開並另創酒莊)、Domaine Dujac。

酒莊最後的正名為Pousse d’Or應該自1964年算起,葡萄園則從最初的2公頃,逐漸搜購幾處經營不善卻赫赫有名的葡萄園,擴展到18公頃年產量約8千箱,足見現任莊主Patrick Landagner的雄才大略和對釀酒無限的熱情,Patrick接手後不斷投入巨資更新現代化的釀酒設備,和擴建源自三百年前西妥教會所興建的酒窖,他覺得現在是他能把葡萄照顧到最好的規模將不會再擴大,酒莊採取有機耕作,使用1/3新桶、1/3一年桶、1/3二年桶,所有的酒不過濾不澄清,保留最豐盈的果味,瓶中陳年18個月。

Pousse d’ Or酒莊不僅有悠久的歷史,近年更是戮力改革,更感謝於大名鼎鼎的隔壁鄰居Henri Boillot不藏私地頃囊相授,讓Pousse d’ O的酒表現出優雅細緻又不失勁道的優美酒體,口感純正酒體豐滿,就成了該酒莊葡萄酒的典雅獨特味道,早已深受國人的喜愛。


Domaine de la Pousse' d'Or is one of the most picturesque estates in Burgundy, perched imperiously on the southern flank o Volnay village. With his hounds encircling his legs, I met with Patrick Landanger who became proprietor back in 1997 due to the untimly passed of Gerard Potel. His intentions of becoming a silent shareholder were changed and having acquired the remaining shares from the Potel family, found himselfe the sole proprietor. He got the bit between his teeth, expanding the domaine's holdings up unto Corton and down into Puligny, converting the vineyard to organic viticulture with an eye on biodynamics. We tasted the wines in his multi-tiered cuverie as assembled blend taken directly from vat. Patrick was keen to stress his dedication to sorting, first via a vibrating table, then a second by eye and hand, then electronically. The result is very pure fruit that fortunately is not taken to the extreme so that it erases the nuances of each terroir. Moreover, I appreciate the prudent use of new oak here. This is another estate, like Marquis d'Angerville, that has a ceteris paribus approach i.e. it is maintained at 30% so that those nuances of terrori can be observed without being skewed by the level of wood. There have been occasions, most notably appropos the 2009 vintage, where I felt that there was a touch of over-ripeness evident in the wines. In 2012 I only discemedone cuvee that exhibited similar traits, the Bonnes-Mares, which came across tather ostentatious compared to the far more refined Clos-de-la-Roche. Otherwise, these 2012s from La Pousse d'Or are worth seeking out.